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© D Prescott
No – at Inveraray you are not continuing north as many folk imagine! – you are, in fact, heading from The Highlands to the Lowlands and the long and wandering road – all the way down to the Mull of Kintyre – “oh, mist rolling in from the sea” **– Paul McCartney was so fascinated by this remote peninsula that he bought a farm here in the 1960’s.Such a beautiful coastal road – at times Atlantic spray forms a mist in the distance. Looking over to your right – big skies, the islands of Gigha, Islay and The Paps of Jura peeping up above the clouds. Hardly surprising that …. Mactaggart the artist was captivated by the coastline and its secrets..
On the way – a ferry will transport you over to Islay if you wish – a wild island of 9 distilleries and beautiful coastline, long sandy beaches; machair; agriculture; standing stones; celtic crosses; bird reserves; rugged cliffs; wrecks and lighthouses.. From there you can also visit The Island of Jura. If you take the plane you will miss an adventure.
The smaller island of Gigha is a shorter ferry journey – Achamore Gardens and great walks await.
But – heading farther south past farms of dairy cows and cattle you come near the end of the peninsula – busy in times of war – Campbeltown is the main town – in the words of the song ‘Campbeltown loch I wish you were whisky ….” And here also you will find three distilleries for a very special visit.
More excitement yet – farther south to Machrihanish – Atlantic rollers, surfing and immense beaches, wonderful golf course; a quirky old-fashioned tearoom. A hilly road will take you through the mist to Southend and the caves……….
Quieter with a slower pace of life – this is the place to visit for beautiful scenery, history, islands and tranquility.
Now officially in Kintyre – you have a breathtaking view of Tarbert Castle (King Robet the Bruce) and harbour. Stop for a visit to this scenic fishing & sailing village on Loch Fyne (not to be confused with Tarbet, Loch Lomond) as happens often!
Time for a wander around the picturesque harbour, and if you are lucky, see some shellfish being landed or linger on in time to catch a seafood lunch in one of the local restaurants. Seize the opportunity to look at the shops, craft shops and cafes and to browse in the local gallery with wonderful originals and prints, books, crafts, games, etc..
At the far end of the bay – a Calmac ferry awaits to take you to Portavadie if you want a diversion to tour The Cowal Peninsula and Kyles of Bute.
Leaving Tarbert behind, within 15 minutes we are passing the ferry terminal to Islay and left, up over the hill and …..oh! what a wonderful sight in the distance over The Kilbrannan Sound – The Island of Arran’s northern highland area and the high peak of Goatfell.
At the small CalMac ferry terminal to Arran – it’s left to visit Skipness, the 13th C Castle and ruined church. The Castle was one time home to various clans – MacSweens, Stewarts, MacDonalds and Campbells. A visit to Skipness Smokehouse and Seafood Cabin is a must when visiting this area. But for now we stay on the (mainly) single track road to Campbeltown with wonderful sea views of the misty island of Arran on our left almost all the way down the peninsula.
It’s a winding and hilly road but surprises are around each corner – peaceful agricultural land, cliffs and woodland. At a fork in the road we reach the small village of Carradale, 14 miles from Campbeltown. Time for a break – a pint or a coffee in a local hotel and a look around the fishing harbour. There’s a renowned golf course and a beautiful beach here and a rocky path on a narrow spit of land to see an Iron age hillfort. Your only neighbours are the wild goats!
It must surely be time now to have a G & T at the Beinn An Tuirc family-run Kintyre craft Gin Distillery, take a tour or enrol at the gin school! . Located in the grounds of Torrisdale Castle Estate you can enjoy the lunches or home-baking in their lovely café and enjoy walks in the beautiful tree lined paths of the estate. .
A little farther down the coast – Saddell Abbey ruins, 16th C Saddell Castle and Saddell beach where Wings ‘Mull of Kintyre’ was filmed along with the local Campbeltown Pipe Band.
More outstanding views over to Arran and The Kilbrannan Sound with Ailsa Craig (volcanic plug) in the distance. Davaar Island and lighthouse in the middle of the enclosed natural harbour – Campbeltown Loch (….I wish you were whisky”) the largest town in the area is now in sight, once named ”whisky capital of the world” Fascinating architecture – Victorian mansions and historic buildings to remind us of a bygone era of a bustling town, busy port, 30 distilleries and during WW2 a Royal Navy base. The extremely important Campbeltown lifeboat is based here too.
Looking for something different? Based in Inveraray – an ideal day trip with a ferry. From Kintyre a half hour crossing across The Kilbrannan Sound will take you to this unique island which is actually in the district of North Ayrshire – half Highland and half Lowland – on The Highland Boundary fault line. An island of contrasts. Craggy, saw teeth mountains in the northern mountain range (Goat Fell is 874 m (2,867 ft) and rugged glens in the north of the island; sweeping valleys and agriculture in the south.
The main towns are Brodick, Lamlash and Whiting Bay. Beautiful little coastal villages and an interesting coastline. There is plenty to see and do: Visit a distillery or two and the local brewery , Brodick Castle & Country Gardens (NTS); Arran Heritage Museum; stone circles; wildlife; local food outlets featuring local cheeses and venison; Arran Aromatics; galleries and local crafts.
Plenty of challenging wee golf courses for the size of the island.
Until the 1960’s when foreign travel became popular this was one of the most visited resorts on The Clyde Coast when a trip ‘Doon the Watter’ was the great escape from cities like Glasgow. It is still a great way to spend a day or a longer break.
Book with me for an interesting and varied driver-guided tour.
Discover Kintyre, Islay, and beyond by private tour with me in my Volkswagen Caddy
Discover Kintyre, Islay, and beyond by private tour with me in my Volkswagen Caddy
Contact me to discuss and book your private tour.
